RUOHAN SS27: Beyond Simplicity on the Runways of Paris Fashion Week
Video by Chiyoko Takada / VRAI Magazine
Founded in 2021 by designer Ruohan Nie, RUOHAN has developed its own language of modern minimalism, where precise construction, beautiful fabrics and subtle details transform familiar garments into something unexpected.
The “In Becoming” collection, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2027 (SS27), draws inspiration from the fundamental strokes of Chinese characters. Simple lines become the starting point for an exploration of garment construction, with familiar elements rearranged into new proportions and silhouettes.
There is something captivating about clothes that look so effortless when you know how much thought has gone into them. The proportions, the layering, the way fabrics fall and move around the body — nothing feels forced, yet there is so much to discover.
A beautifully layered look in different shades of brown immediately caught my attention. This look in particular consisted of an oversized jacket over a voluminous pleated dress, with relaxed trousers underneath. The dress opened at the back, revealing the trousers beneath, while the pleats created beautiful movement with every step. The subtle variations in brown gave depth to a silhouette already rich in proportion.
Then there was a look comprised of a relaxed navy jacket paired with generously cut trousers in a subtle check. At first glance, the jacket almost appeared tucked into the trousers, but look at that waist! The unusually high, sculptural waistband curved around the jacket, blurring the boundary between the two garments. This was a familiar combination of tailoring, yet completely reconsidered through proportion.
And there was also a black look. So simple at first glance, until you notice the sleeves. Extending outward in sweeping, sculptural curves, they transformed an understated top into something architectural, while the long, straight skirt kept the silhouette beautifully balanced. Such extraordinary construction, achieved without overwhelming the simplicity of the silhouette — exactly the kind of detail that makes me fall in love with fashion all over again.
Despite the intricate construction and multiple layers, the fabrics retained a remarkable lightness, allowing the silhouettes to move naturally with the body. It is this balance between precision and freedom that makes RUOHAN’s approach to design so fascinating.
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