A Tension in the Air: McQueen SS26 at Paris Fashion Week
Photos courtesy of McQueen
The McQueen SS26 — Spring/Summer 2026 — “A febrile charge in the air” collection was unveiled on the evening of October 5, 2025 on the runways of Paris Fashion Week.
“We push against nature, tempering instinct in the name of order. What happens when we give way, satisfying our deep-seated desires and innate impulses? What does it take to stir and submit to that primal drive?” — Seán McGirr, Creative Director
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McQueen SS26 at Paris Fashion Week
SS26 marks McGirr’s third and eagerly anticipated collection for the brand. While the prior McQueen Fall/Winter 2025 collection was full of Victorian Gothic and regal-evening splendor, we find ourselves staring at a heavily streetwear-oriented collection heavily grounded in military references, corsetry and a nod to the ionic “bumster” trouser of the 90s/2000s. While there are hints of dark, gothic references, reinforced with makeup and finger details, and exquisite, modern suiting in the opening looks, various inspirational elements and styles emerged unexpectedly throughout the runway show, reinforcing a tension created in the collection by disparate looks and themes.
Vivid knitwear adorned with 3D florals brought us back to the Sarabande collection of 2007, but felt out of place. Parachute dresses billowing down the runway definitely made a statement, but felt like too much of a departure from the McQueen essence. And while we love an archival reference, does the world really need low-slung trousers and skirts with that much being revealed — again?
In the end, we remain excited for what McGirr will conceptualize and create next for the brand, but after three collections, we’re still waiting to get a sense of who he is as a designer and the trajectory of McQueen with him at the helm.
See our ongoing coverage of Paris Fashion Week SS26 in September & October 2025.
