An Air of Playfulness and Spatial Beauty: Issey Miyake SS27 at PFW
Runway photos by Filippo Fior (GoRunway) / Detail photos by Salvatore Dragone (GoRunway) — courtesy of Issey Miyake
An Issey Miyake show is never just about the clothes. Artistic Director Satoshi Kondo brought attention to the senses we almost forget exist during the fashion show at Paris Fashion Week (PFW). The sound, not just the music, but the sound created from the movement of the fabric is the first to come alive. The way the clothes shift around the body and the space they create, even the reflection beneath them come to the forefront. Somehow, Kondo is able to make you experience the clothes before one even starts thinking about them.
The SS27 — Spring/Summer 2027 — “Figure of Ma” collection presented October 2, 2026 at the Dojo de Paris, explored the space created between fabric and the body. As models walked across the mirrored runway, their reflections shifted and broke apart beneath them, almost like a moving and magical mosaic.
The gray and blue combinations (pictured below left) immediately caught my eye. A soft gray, relaxed silhouette with Issey’s signature unexpected cut, almost quiet on its own, was interrupted by an intense blue bag sitting right across the body.
Then there was black look (pictured above right) with a beautiful wash of pale purple, white, and soft buttery colors. The scarf-like layers floated around the body, bringing lightness to the black underneath. It almost smelled like spring.
One of my favorite silhouettes (pictured below left) was the simplest in color — a fitted, black, sculptural top against enormously voluminous trousers. I loved the contrast between how closely the top followed the body and how dramatically the trousers expanded around it. The body was still there, but the silhouette became something else entirely.
Finally, there was a gray layered look (pictured above right) that left me speechless. With different lengths, folds, and layered pieces, the result was a creation of thoughtful, yet chaotic beauty. There was so much happening, yet somehow everything belonged exactly where it was meant to be.
These are just a few of the things that I loved about the Issey Miyake SS27 collection — color, volume, sound, movement, and space — never disparate, but harmonious. The clothes change with the body and our experience of them changes with every step, even in the reflections.
Issey Misake SS27 Runway at PFW
Issey Miyake SS27 Collection Series:
FLUIGLYPH — a seamless knit series depicting the fluid motion of water. Adapting to the wearer’s body, it stretches and extends in flowing curves.
BALLOON TWIST — a series inspired by the movement of a large piece of fabric undulating as it captures air within.
DRAPED ENSEMBLE — a series featuring a bold, sculptural silhouette made possible by draping the body with a single piece of lightweight, yet firm, fabric.
BILLOW — a series featuring a refreshing sheer fabric with an airy, buoyant feel. Constructed from a single piece of fabric, the voluminous silhouettes create a swaying movement.
CAPRICE — a pleated series that plays with the layering of colors. Its simple bi-tubular construction is formed by partially sewing together three rectangular pieces of fabric in solid colors, adding dimension to these playful swaying pleats.
TEMPO PLEATS — a series featuring horizontal pleats that bounce with movement, creating a light and lively presence, as though the garment itself were at play.
BUBBLE (INK MARBLING) — a print series featuring an ink-marbling technique on translucent organza with a lustrous sheen reminiscent of a soap bubble.
BALLOONING — a defining series of this season, inspired by the form of a balloon enveloping the body.
COCOON BODY — a new series of wearable body forms derived from ISSEY MIYAKE’s ongoing investigation into physicality and sensuousness.
CAMPER × ISSEY MIYAKE Peu Lift — Based on the partnership’s themes of heritage, playfulness, and physicality, Peu Lift integrates Camper’s barefoot-feeling icon “Peu” with ISSEY MIYAKE design. The result is a refined, playful interpretation of traditional Japanese footwear that speaks to both brands’ design languages.
CAMPER × ISSEY MIYAKE Peu Formula — An evolution of the partnership’s first footwear line Peu Form, Peu Formula is a crystalized interpretation of Peu Form’s original leather silhouette, transforming it into a lightweight, wearable sculpture.
